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Let nature provide the nutrients.
Fertilizers contain nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, and other elements that help build strong roots and plants. But as the saying goes, too much of a good thing can be bad.
Many of us unknowingly waste time and money by putting too much of the wrong kind of fertilizer on our landscapes, often at the wrong times. This is partially because our soil is not properly balanced (that is, it’s too acidic or alkaline) to allow plants to absorb the nutrients they need in the first place. Not only does your lawn and wallet suffer, but so does the environment.
Generally speaking, lawns need much less fertilizer than is advertised. Fertilizers that are not immediately absorbed by plants in our landscapes end up polluting our water through stormwater runoff. These excess nutrients either leach through the soil to the groundwater or they are washed by rain into stormdrains that lead to the nearest waterbody. These nutrients can contaminate our drinking water and cause rapid alga growth in ponds and bays. Alga blooms not only make swimming and boating unpleasant, but also block sunlight and deplete oxygen, killing fish and other animals.
Save time and money by following these helpful guidelines to provide your lawn with all the nutrients it needs to be healthy, beautiful, and easy to maintain.
Have your soil professionally tested.
The foundation of a Greenscapes lawn is balanced soil that is nutrient-rich. If your soil isn’t healthy, your lawn and other plants aren’t healthy. Find out your soil’s pH and other characteristics by sending a sample to the soil lab at the University of Massachusetts. For a small fee, you will receive an analysis and recommendations for improving your soil. Some local nurseries also provide soil sample analyses.
Add lime if your soil is acidic.
Your soil’s pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0 for a healthy lawn. Most landowners in southeastern Massachusetts will find that their soil’s pH is below 7, which means it is acidic. Acidic soil is more hospitable to weeds than grass because it prevents nutrient absorption. Adding lime will remedy this
problem. To raise your soil’s pH one point, use a mechanical spreader to evenly broadcast 40 pounds of pelletized lime per 1000 square feet of grass (that’s approximately 400 pounds for a quarter-acre lawn). Be sure to determine lime quantity by the lawn surface area, not the total acreage of your lot.
Leave grass clippings on the lawn.
Mulching mowers create fine grass clippings that will break down and add nitrogen and organic matter to the soil. Leaving grass clippings on the lawn over the season provides the equivalent of one regular fertilizer application, and will not cause thatch. Take advantage of this free natural fertilizer and let nature do the work!
Top dress with compost.
If your soil analysis shows that your lawn needs nutrients, a thin layer of compost (1/4” or less) will provide most of what your soil needs. Compost also adds organic materials that help the soil retain moisture. High-quality compost is available in nurseries by the bag or in bulk, or you can make your own. The best time to treat your lawn with compost is in the spring, by using a wheelbarrow, shovel and lawn rake. You will need about one cubic yard of compost per 1,500 to 2,000 square feet of lawn area. Click here for or more about composting,.
Aerate compacted turf.
If water puddles on high-use areas of your lawn, the soil may be compacted and need to be aerated. Aerating the lawn punches holes in the soil to allow air, water, and nutrients to reach the roots. You can rent a powered aerator from rental yards or large garden centers. Leave the small plugs of thatch and soil on your lawn and they will quickly decompose. The best time to aerate is in the early fall.
Clover is a free source of nutrients.
Dutch white clover is a beautiful low-growing, broadleaf species that used to be a welcome addition to many lawns. However, society’s relatively recent quest for the “perfect” lawn has changed this perception (see Boston Globe article). White clover is a great addition to any Greenscape lawn because this hardy perennial smothers weeds, prevents erosion, retains moisture and builds fertility as it naturally “fixes” nitrogen in your soil. Clover is tough enough to withstand foot traffic and offers beautiful dark green foliage and small white flowers. If bees are a concern to your family, control the blooms with frequent mowing.
If necessary, use organic fertilizers.
If you follow the guidelines on this page, chances are your lawn already gets enough nutrients. However, if your soil test shows that you still need to add additional nutrients, choose an organic fertilizer as this will supplement your soil as well as “feed” your plants. Be sure to: (1) use an organic, slow-release, water-insoluble fertilizer at the recommended dose; (2) don’t spread the fertilizer if heavy rain is predicted; (3) evenly distribute the fertilizer using a mechanical spreader at the lowest setting, going over the area two or three times; and (4) sweep up fertilizer that accidentally lands on paved surfaces.
Fertilize in the fall, if at all.
Fertilizing in the spring results in more weeds and more mowing. Don’t feed the weeds – fertilize in the fall instead. Fall is the best time to fertilize your lawn because the nutrients build deep, strong roots instead of being used for quick growth of the grass blades. Springtime rains can wash away fertilizer, contributing to pollution and algae blooms in nearby water bodies.
Organic fertilizers and synthetic fertilizers are not the same.
Organic fertilizers are less concentrated, but have longer lasting benefits because they gradually release nutrients. Synthetic fertilizers are more concentrated which makes it is easier to overfertilize, burning the plant, and potentially harming soil organisms. Synthetic fertilizers also tend to be more water-soluble, leaching out of the soil faster and potentially polluting our water resources. Organic fertilizers offer an additional benefit of recycling waste that would otherwise contribute to pollution.